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Where in the World: Cyprus

Cyprus, the Mediterranean ’s third largest island, is located off the southern coast of Turkey and west of Israel and Lebanon. It is one of the best known tourist destinations of the area. Cyprus has a long history of changing hands beginning with British colonization and followed by a long and bloody era of violence between the Greeks and Turks. Today, the island is separated in a sense. Half of the island is Turkish and the other half is Greek. The Greek half, the Republic of Cyprus, is its own nation, is recognized by the rest of the world and is a member of the European Union. The Turkish side is not recognized as a republic and is still controlled by Turkey. Today, after many years of problems, the two cultures seem to have settled down together and the area has been relatively peaceful for some time now because both sides basically stick to themselves.

The mythical birthplace of Aphrodite, Cyprus has an amazing mix of food and culture. Although the Greeks and Turkish have had problems getting along, it is safe to say that their food and cultures mix together incredibly well. Turkish and Greek foods are quite similar, and in Cyprus the food draws on the best of both places while staying true to traditional cooking methods, flavors and ingredients. In Cyprus, food and culture are central in the lives of the inhabitants. Cooking and eating (and let’s not forget drinking together…OPA!) with family and friends is integral to live in Cyprus. With its picturesque villages, tiny cobblestone streets and mud and straw mortar houses, the common theme is festive eating and drinking whether it be up high in the mountains or in the coastal villages.

Touring through the island’s various villages not only brings you through lush Mediterranean rosemary and lavender bushes growing wild along the hillsides, it also exposes the food craftsmanship that continues to be a marketable tradition for the islanders. Sweet soaked fruits, grape and almond candy, fresh fruit jam, herbal syrups, olive oils, dried herbs, pickled vegetables like eggplant (done with a sweet touch) and candied nuts of all kinds line the market stalls in the villages. Crafting these island delicacies is still a hands-on process which means diverse flavors and tastes are expressed throughout the various villages.

The island is also known for its winemaking, and sweet wines are a Cyprus specialty. The island is most famous for its Comandaria wine. It is an amber-colored dessert wine that has been produced on the island for the last 4000 years using the local marvo (black) and xinisteri (white) varieties of Cyprus grapes. It is the same wine said to be used by the Greeks in the celebrations for Aphrodite, and it is a long tradition that has been marketed and exported all over the world.

The food, as mentioned, is a mix of traditional Greek and Turkish cuisines with many Middle Eastern influences. The most common style of eating is still the meze style which consists of many small dishes shared around the table. It typically consists of fresh baked breads;tashi, a local variety of tahini; Greek salad; roasted eggplant; olives, typically of the taramasalata variety; calamari; middle eastern style meatballs made of bulgur, lamb, beef and fresh herbs and spices called keftedes; fresh fish – always fresh fish;dolmades; grilled halumi cheese; cauliflower baked in tomato sauce and Comanderia wine; souvlaki made of pork or chicken marinated in yogurt and herbs and then grilled; sheflalia which is a skinless sausage with parsley and spices wrapped in caul fat or the stomach membrane of a pig or lamb; baby lamb chops; afelia, or pork marinated with coriander and red wine and then roasted; the meze typically ends with fresh seasonal fruit. Meze meals are at least several hours long and promote the idea of people taking time to talk and eat together. The meals always end with Cypriot coffee, the Cyprus version of Turkish coffee, and either one of the local sweet wines or brandy.  At the end of a few hours of drinking and eating, they are usually ready for dancing!

Tashi
Tashi is the local version of tahini with yogurt and a good amount of garlic. It is usually eaten with bread.

Makes 2½ cups

3-4 cloves of garlic, crushed
½ cup sesame paste
Juice of 3 lemons
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup plain Greek style yogurt
1 teaspoon cumin
1 tablespoon fresh mint, chopped fine
1tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped fine
1 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped fine
Salt to taste

Mix together all ingredients until well blended. A food processor or handheld processor will do, but do not over blend.

Keftedes
A meatball of Middle Eastern style and influence made of bulgur, and a mixture of lamb and beef, spiced according to region but always including fresh mint and coriander leaves.

Makes 2½ cups

½ lb ground lamb
½ lb ground beef
½ cup cooked bulgur
6 cloves garlic, minced fine
1/3 cup fresh mint, chopped fine
1/3 cup fresh parsley, chopped fine
1/3 cup fresh cilantro, chopped fine
1/3 cup fresh oregano, chopped fine
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 cup ouzo
3 eggs, beaten
Salt and pepper
Pinch of red chili flakes
Olive oil

In a large mixing bowl mix together all ingredients, except the eggs and ouzo, with your hands until well mixed. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add the ouzo and mix well again. Add the eggs and gently mix together until all moisture is distributed evenly.

Shape into 1½ inch even balls and refrigerate for at least half an hour and up to an hour.

Heat oil in a large frying pan and place a pinch of chili flakes in the oil. Fry meatballs on medium high heat rolling around to ensure even cooking on all sides. Drain on paper towels.

Cypriot Greek Salad
A Greek salad accompanies every meal in Cyprus. This recipe is for a very simple and basic salad made in larger chunks and with more fresh herb leaves than the Greeks typically make.

Serves  4
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
2 cups romaine lettuce torn into bite size pieces
½ cup calamata olives or the tarmasalata olives traditionally used in Cyprus
½ cup feta, crumbled
½ cup fresh parsley leaves
½ cup olive oil
Juice of 2 lemons
Salt and pepper

Mix together tomatoes, lettuce, olives, feta and parsley. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Drizzle olive oil and lemon juice over the salad, toss and serve.

Herbed Grilled Halumi Cheese
Halumi cheese is a traditional Cypriot cheese that is made from a mixture of sheep and goat milk. It has an extremely high melting point so it is often served fried or grilled throughout the Middle East.

Serves  4

½ pound halumi cheese, sliced thick and about 2 inches in length
½ cup fresh oregano leaves
½ cup fresh parsley leaves
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt

Brush the halumi cheese with some of the olive oil and grill each side on medium high heat for a few minutes or until well browned. Toss grilled halumi in a large mixing bowl with herbs, remaining olive oil and lemon juice. Sprinkle with salt.